By Niki Partsch 

As we approach the second anniversary of Matariki as an official public holiday, we take inspiration from the practise of hautapu, which some whānau have been practising for generations. 

The history of ceremony around Matariki stretches back through many winters to a time when stars dominated the inky depths of the night skies. Beneath these stars all our ancestors have dreamed and shared fireside stories of their forebears, of tragedy, success and of their aspirations for the future.  

Matariki celebrations often begin in the last quarter of the Tangaroa phase of the lunar calendar, and this includes planning and preparations for whāngai i te hautapu or hautapu for short. This is when food, usually sourced from the local environment, is cooked to honour the rising of Matariki and to show thanks for all that the environment has given us.  

A traditional hautapu would be a hāngī or umu containing specific kai associated with stars within the Matariki cluster. For example, the star known as Waitī is associated with freshwater, so watercress and fish sourced from lake or river is suitable for honouring this star. The star Tupuānuku is associated with food grown direct from the earth so foods like kūmara, potatoes or beans are suitable. 

A traditional hāngī or umu is made through fire heated stones. This is either in a pit dug into soil (hāngī) or in warmer areas it may be on top of the ground (umu). When the rocks are hot enough, they are spread out and food is placed on them. There’s absolutely a skill to this, and the key is to have the foods which require the most cooking in the hottest part close to the rocks and the softer vegetables on top, either in baskets or wrapped in leaves or cloth. It is then covered, usually with leaves and soil. These days cloth and foil are often used to help keep the heat and steam in and the soil off the food. Experience and skill are crucial to knowing when to carefully open the hāngī/umu. 

When Matariki rises pre-dawn there are karakia and this is when the names of the recently departed will be called into the night sky. Immediately following this, and before the rising of the sun, the covers will be lifted from the umu and the steam will rise upwards towards the stars. This is umu kohukohu whetu when the stars are fed by the steam from the kai. This ‘giving back’ signifies thanks for the previous year's bounty and hope for abundance in the new season. 

It’s not possible for everyone to have a traditional umu but anyone can create their own celebration. A casserole pot hot from the oven can be carefully taken outside and the lid lifted to allow the steam to rise. Think fish pie, bean casserole or even our own Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga pear and apple crumble recipe. The purpose is what matters – this is a moment in time where we acknowledge and show gratitude towards our environment and all that comes from the earth, the oceans, rivers, and forests. 

At Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga, we especially take inspiration from the whakatauākī gifted to us by Dame Rangimarie Naida Glavish DNZM JP: Tairangahia a tua whakarere; Tātakihia ngā reanga o āmuri ake nei. Honouring the past; Inspiring our future. As you look to your own Matariki traditions for this year, perhaps look for inspiration in the latest episode of our Pouhere Taonga podcast, which will be released soon.