Early history of the site
The site occupied by Ellesmere was part of a significant Maori and early colonial landscape on the Symonds Street ridge. Prior to European arrival, land at the northern end of the ridge incorporated a pa known as Te Rerengaoraiti. Another settlement, Horotiu, may also have been located in the immediate vicinity, occupying high ground overlooking the Horotiu (now Queen Street) gully. Ongoing cultivations on the ridge were intermittently maintained during inter-tribal hostilities in the early nineteenth century and re-established by Ngati Whatua in the late 1830s. Ngati Whatua left these cultivations as a result of their offer, and the subsequent purchase by the Crown, of some 3,000 acres at Auckland in 1840 to accommodate a capital for the new British colony.
Following the establishment of Auckland as a colonial settlement, the Symonds Street ridge was at the epicentre of British administrative and military power in New Zealand. Significant buildings in the area included the Colonial Governor's residence at Government House, the Provincial Council and General Assembly, and the Albert Barracks - which was the largest military installation in the colony. Erected using Maori labour in 1846-1852, the basalt walls of the Barracks enclosed accommodation for approximately 1000 soldiers. The northern wall and structures associated with the fortification lay a short distance to the south of the current site of 23 Princes Street, with a military road running immediately beneath the property. This formed the primary access to the Barracks, linking its main gate with the southern terminus of Princes Street until 1873.
Following the relocation of the colonial capital and its associated administration to Wellington in 1865, many of the troops were withdrawn. In February 1870, the last of the fourteen British regiments to serve in New Zealand left the Barracks, after which the fortification was decommissioned.
Redevelopment of Albert Barracks
Decommissioning enabled a large part of the eastern core of colonial Auckland to be redeveloped. Prior to the construction of the Barracks, the Surveyor-General Felton Mathew had intended that the northern end of the Symonds Street ridge should be occupied by residences arranged in fashionable avenues and crescents. In the 1870s, the area remained desirable for its proximity to places of high social standing such as the former Government House, and for its elevated vantage point overlooking Auckland's commercial district. The Auckland Improvement Commission subsequently laid out new roads, subdivided the land and promoted the creation of Albert Park.
The redevelopment appears to have marked a new approach in urban Auckland, consciously creating a neighbourhood based on wealth. Formal restrictions for leaseholders stipulated that sections could not be further subdivided and that the houses erected were to be two storied, roofed with slate or iron and to be built at a cost of at least £700. Plans for the houses were also subject to the approval of the commissioners. Earlier residential areas in Auckland were generally more mixed and influenced by shared places of work (such as occupation of the Symonds Street ridge by high officials and ordinary soldiers alike), although some areas were traditionally more prestigious than others. The redevelopment attracted many wealthy merchants, who had become Auckland's new elite following the departure of government officials to Wellington. The former were often self-made men from working- or lower middle-class backgrounds, whose success reflected the unusually high potential for social mobility in colonial New Zealand. Their rise was assisted by a prolonged economic boom in the 1870s and Auckland's emerging role as a major Pacific entrepot.
As part of the redevelopment, tenders for the southward extension of Princes Street from its junction with Waterloo Quadrant were received in June 1873. The road, along with others in the vicinity, was evidently complete by April 1875. Most of the Barracks wall was also dismantled in 1873-1875. In keeping with the proposed nature of the area, the streets were metalled, lit with gas and provided with drainage and sewerage. Deciduous trees were also intended to be planted.
In December 1875, the Auckland Improvement Commissioners auctioned 99-year leases for fourteen sites on the western side of Princes Street. Considered to be the premier plots within the redevelopment, these were advertised as desirable for their 'unsurpassed and uninterrupted view' over the surrounding area and their proximity to the Government House grounds. They were also considered suitable as villa sites for businessmen as they lay just a few minutes walk away from Auckland's main commercial district in the Queen Street gully. All of the purchasers obtained at least two conjoining allotments between 1875 and 1877 to provide generous sites for their homes.
Construction and initial use of 23 Princes Street
The lease for Lots 5 and 6 was initially purchased in December 1877 by Albert Dornwall. It was immediately transferred to Henry Brett (1843-1927), a prominent publisher who owned the Evening (later Auckland) Star and who was responsible for Brett's Colonist's Guide and other widely-disseminated publications. A self-made entrepreneur, Brett was also the first person to introduce photo-engraving to New Zealand with the production of the New Zealand Graphic from 1890. He was mayor of Auckland at the time that the lease for 23 Princes Street was initially advertised.
The plot appears to have remained empty until 1881, when a large two-storey house of ornate Italianate style was erected. Construction occurred a few years after similar buildings were erected on adjoining sections. It is unclear if Brett, an inhabitant of Parnell, ever intended to live on the site. The timber house may have been erected for investment purposes. Its external appearance was that of a single-occupancy residence with a main frontage containing a central portico. However, a brick dividing wall down the middle of the structure suggests that it was intended from the outset for use as two semi-detached dwellings. Access to the northern household was from a door in the north side of the building, beside an ornate two-storey balcony. The design and ornate nature of the residential building indicates that it was intended to blend in with the prestigious appearance of its neighbours.
Both halves of the structure were sufficiently commodious to incorporate a suite of large rooms at ground floor level and several bedrooms upstairs. Small timber extensions for each dwelling were erected against the rear (west) wall, possibly at the same time as the rest of the structure. The Italianate architectural style employed for the structure was often used for both mercantile residences and premises in Auckland during the late Victorian period, being modelled on the designs of Italian Renaissance buildings erected from the proceeds of commercial wealth. Many other houses in Princes Street were built in variations of this style, although each was also highly individualised. Together, they can be seen to represent the flexibility of Italianate architecture, as well as individuality within the collective identity of their mercantile owners.
By 1883, the building was occupied by separate tenants: insurance agent Robert Dobson in its northern portion and merchant Moss Levy in the southern half. Levy, a single man, was one of several Jewish merchants living in the immediate neighbourhood whose occupancy coincided with construction of Auckland's main synagogue at 19A Princes Street in 1884-1885. It is possible that the grand semi-detached residences may have initially suited single men of means.
Subsequent use and modification
A succession of further sub-lessees occupied the premises over the coming years. The southern residence, occupied by Levy until 1885, was subsequently inhabited by H.D. Levinsohn. In 1890 it was lived in by surgeon, A.H. Orphen. Henry Brett's daughter, Mrs L. Grainger, and her husband became the occupants in 1903 and were still resident in 1925.
The northern portion, initially tenanted by Robert Dobson, was taken over in 1885 by ironmonger J.H. Keep. Keep was in turn succeeded in 1887 by boarding house proprietor Mrs Powell (later Mrs Paine). By 1893 the establishment was known as 'Ellesmere'. The Symonds Street ridge was noted for its respectable boarding houses from the late 1880s and 1890s, when Auckland was gripped by a prolonged economic depression. These were usually run by respectable female housekeepers, providing accommodation for single people or married couples.
Rear additions appear to have been made before 1900 to expand the facilities of both the boarding house and the adjoining tenancy. These comprised a large two-storey brick addition of symmetrical dimensions and a further, single-storey timber attachment against its western wall. The rear yard was divided in half with freestanding outhouses against the north and south boundary walls. The boundary itself comprised a high brick wall, evidently incorporating a stepped pedestrian access from a service lane to the rear. There is no indication of stables.
Subsequent modifications focused on the northern tenancy. An early timber extension was converted into a taller brick structure, and the northern part of the pre-1900 brick addition appears to have been raised by a storey, possibly at the same time. The ornate two-storey verandah on the north wall was also infilled. These changes created more commodious accommodation, particularly at first floor level.
During the late 1920s, occupation of the building intensified. In 1929, the northern section of the structure was converted into four separate households: one in the basement, one on the ground floor and two on the first floor. A concrete garage was added to the site in 1930. A doctor's surgery was established in the building in 1952, reflecting an aspect of the area's late nineteenth- and twentieth-century history as a focal point for medical practitioners. The balance of the building remained in flats, a situation that continued until 1977.
Heritage protection and institutional use
By the 1970s, the land on which the house stood had reverted to Auckland City Council ownership following the expiry of its 99-year lease. In 1963 the Council had decided that Ellesmere, along with its neighbours on the western side of Princes Street should be demolished to become part of Albert Park. By 1972 a developing awareness of the importance of preserving heritage, and heritage values in formal city plans, led the Auckland City Council to retain and restore the Victorian residences. The Auckland Improvement Trust Act 1971 allowed the Council to keep one or more of the houses as examples of Victorian architecture, and a subsequent Act detailed how the buildings were to be managed. In 1974 the Council resolved to designate the houses and the adjacent synagogue as a conservation area and to restore them. Physical boundaries separating the property from adjoining houses appear to have been removed at this time or later.
Ellesmere was subsequently leased to the Auckland University Club. The building was considerably altered, and several interior spaces were reconfigured. Many external structures and features were also removed or heavily modified at this time. The building is currently (2007) occupied as a language school, for which internal alterations were undertaken in 1996. The main alterations undertaken in the past two decades have included the addition of an extra storey in the southwest part of the building and the removal of partitioning throughout much of the original northern tenancy.
Ellesmere is one of very few elite dwellings remaining from when the Symonds Street ridge was the premier residential address in the city. Many contemporary houses that occupied neighbouring streets have been demolished, and of those that remain most have lost significant aspects of their nineteenth-century surroundings, including their curtilages. Together with Albert Park and other houses that remain on the western side of Princes Street, Ellesmere forms an important reminder of a major recreational and residential landscape on the fringe of Auckland's colonial commercial district. It is the only surviving example within the 1870s and 1880s Albert Barracks redevelopment known to have been built to a semi-detached design.