Early New Zealand Lighthouses
The history of lit navigational aids in New Zealand began in the early 1830s, when a beacon was erected at Maketu in the Bay of Plenty. In the early years of the colony, inbound vessels frequently had difficulty in identifying ports due to a lack of navigational aids, and shipwrecks were common. During the 1850s and early 1860s, permanent lighthouses were erected by the Wellington and Nelson Provincial Councils, including an imported cast iron structure at Pencarrow in 1858-59 - the earliest permanent lighthouse in New Zealand. In 1861, a countrywide approach was outlined to provide the coast with thirteen structures, together with five lights at other harbour entrances. This plan was adopted after responsibility for navigational aids was given to a national body, the newly-appointed Chief Marine Board (later the Marine Board of New Zealand), in 1862. The Board completed the construction of several new lighthouses, including the earliest stone examples, before becoming the Marine Department in 1866.
James Balfour, who had designed the stone lighthouse at Dog Island, was appointed Marine Engineer for the new department. He set about reforming the lighthouse service following the Scottish model with which he was familiar. In the interests of speed and efficiency, Balfour adopted a policy of erecting lighthouses in timber wherever possible. After his death in 1869, this policy was continued through the 1870s and into the early 1880s by John Blackett and Captain Robert Johnson. Blackett was responsible for engineering and technical duties, while Johnson - who had instigated the 1861 plan to provide national lighthouse coverage - was head of the department. Under their stewardship, the 1870s proved to be the peak decade of lighthouse construction in New Zealand, and by 1879 there were some 25 lighthouses guiding vessels around the waters surrounding New Zealand. A further six were erected in the early 1880s before economic depression contributed to a decline in construction activity. The last of the lighthouses completed during this period was the Kaipara North Head light.
Navigational aids at Kaipara
The Kaipara is New Zealand's largest harbour, connected to its hinterland by a series of eight rivers. During the nineteenth century, vast stands of timber around its shores were milled and exported over the Kaipara bar to Australia, Britain and mainland Europe. Rather than having a single port, the Kaipara boasted a conglomeration of minor ports along its shores. The Wairoa River, which led to the northern settlement of Dargaville, was particularly busy.
The Kaipara bar was hazardous to cross, and the landmarks which helped guide a ship's course into the harbour were frequently blurred by haze, fog or smoke. The need for navigational assistance was recognised early in the colonial period. In 1855 Captain Stannaway was appointed Pilot of the Kaipara harbour, becoming Harbourmaster when a pilot station was established at South Kaipara Head in 1864. Ten years later the pilot station was relocated to the opposite side of the harbour, at Pouto, following Robert Johnson's observation during a survey of northern ports that vessels entered on the northern side of the Kaipara entrance, where they were largely obscured by spray from the station on the South Head. In 1878, Johnson completed another Kaipara survey, after which a beacon was erected in the Kaipara River and several buoys in the harbour were renewed.
In spite of these navigational aids, 17 vessels were lost and many more damaged at the Kaipara bar by 1880. Due to such losses, the stretch of sand below the Kaipara North Head became known as 'the graveyard.' The safety of shipping and cargo became especially important as the Kaipara developed into the largest exporter of timber in New Zealand between 1880 and 1910. Calls were subsequently made for improved navigational aids, including a letter signed by 25 ships masters in 1881, which is believed to have requested that action be taken to erect a lighthouse to improve the safety of the harbour.
Construction of the Kaipara North Head Lighthouse
The need for a lighthouse was soon accepted by the Marine Department, after which a suitable site at Kaipara North Head was chosen by John Blackett and Captain R. Johnson in 1882-83. The site they selected lay close to a pre-existing signal-staff, a few kilometres to the west of the fledgling settlement of Pouto, where the Harbourmaster was stationed. The lighthouse was to be constructed in an elevated position at 85m above sea level, in an area dominated by large sand dunes. Maori occupation had previously occurred in the vicinity, as evidenced by the remains of nearby ovens and middens, while land to the northeast was also marked on a 1870s plan of the area as wahi tapu.
In November 1883 work began on erecting the lighthouse. The structure was to consist of a six-sided tower, three storeys in height, topped by a lantern. This made it 13.4m high. Its appearance was evidently intended to be very similar to the Waipapa Point lighthouse in Southland, which was already under construction. Both lighthouses are likely to have been designed by John Blackett, possibly assisted by Captain Robert Johnson. The Kaipara lighthouse was to be the last nineteenth-century New Zealand lighthouse constructed of timber, coming at the end of a policy of timber construction that had been in place since the 1860s.
Kauri timber for the structure was obtained locally while shingle was brought up from Mt Eden in Auckland to provide material for the concrete foundations. The lantern, iron spiral staircase, and brass rails and fittings were imported from England and Scotland. The lantern was made by James Milne and Sons of Edinburgh, while Barbier and Fenestre, and Dove and Company respectively provided the revolving apparatus and weights. The materials were landed by sea and hauled up to the site. It is likely that construction was overseen by David Scott, the Marine Department's lighthouse artificier, who was responsible for the erection of New Zealand's lighthouses at this time.
Work on the lighthouse was hampered by the sandstorms that lashed the headland, and goggles were requested to help the builders continue with their task. The light was first operated on the night of 1 December 1884, when it consisted of a white revolving light flashing once every ten seconds. The tower was initially painted red, and the beam was visible from a distance of 37 km given good conditions.
There was still much finishing work to be done and this was carried out by two resident lighthouse keepers, who subsequently took over the running of the light. The lighthouse formed part of a larger residential station, incorporating two dwellings for the keepers and their families, water tanks, a signal station and a stable. The lighthouse and auxiliary buildings were erected at a cost of £5,571, slightly less than the facilities at Waipapa Point and among the cheaper of the lighthouses built until then.
The internal layout of the lighthouse is considered unlikely to have changed significantly between its construction and an account published in May 1893: 'The first chamber has presses round one side, wherein are kept duplicates of almost everything connected with the light, and in the centre of the floor is a square opening with a railing round about, which allows the weight that drives the machine to descend. A trap door leads down into a lower chamber in which are kept the paints, etc., used in decorating. From the first chamber one mounts a staircase that leads to the second, the floor of which, like the chamber beneath is made of kauri . . . in this chamber, beneath a small window, are four cells supplying electricity for the call bells. Another stair mounted, and we reach the tower containing the machine, and above it the light, and the lenses that reflect the light.'
Early life at the lighthouse
The first lighthouse keepers were Martin Nelson, principal keeper, and John Ansin, assistant keeper and signalman. A lighthouse diary reveals aspects of their daily routine at this time. Nights were spent watching the light, with one working from dusk to midnight and the other working from midnight to dawn. Days were spent maintaining the light and buildings. During their first months at Kaipara North Head, there was much for Nelson and Ansin to do. They painted the lighthouse and ancillary buildings, as well as putting finishing touches to the stable. They also planted a fine garden about a mile inland from the lighthouse, and went on regular trips to Pouto for provisions and mail. The lighthouse was open to visitors for six days each week.
Despite the presence of the new lighthouse, the Kaipara bar continued to claim more victims. On the night of Friday 2 January 1885, just a month after the lighthouse went into service, the brigantine Anabell was wrecked on the Tory Shoal. The captain and his crew abandoned ship and landed at Kaipara North Head where they stayed the night with the lighthouse keepers. Six weeks later the lighthouse keepers were playing host to Captain Magnussen, his family and the crew of his barque Mary Annison, which went ashore on the north spit. A month later, the captain and crew of the barquentine Mathieu landed at the lighthouse when their ship was wrecked a mile from the light. The possibility of erecting two navigation lights at the harbour to act as leading markers for crossing the Kaipara bar was investigated in the late 1890s. However, with the sand bar frequently shifting its position any new lights could quickly become ineffective as navigational aids and the idea was abandoned.
Alterations at the lighthouse station at the end of the nineteenth century included moving the signal station and constructing a hut for the signalman. In the early 1900s, the lighthouse staff and their families moved from the station to nearby Pouto, where there was a school, post office and store. Relocation was largely due to problems with shifting sand at the lighthouse. The move occurred sometime after the departure of the Harbourmaster and Customs Officer from Pouto to Te Kopuru, a timber-milling centre to the south of Dargaville, in 1903, and may have taken place in stages. Left behind at Kaipara North Head, just a short distance from the lighthouse was the grave of infant George Raymond Dallas Finch (d.1909), son of assistant keeper George Finch. The grave and its kauri marker still remain, as does a midden bearing discarded items, possibly from the occupation of the station.
Three keepers were stationed at Kaipara after the move, with each keeper serving two weeks at the lighthouse followed by one week at Pouto. This meant that at any one time, two keepers would be at Kaipara North Head. The keepers would ride the eight kilometres between Pouto and the lighthouse on horseback along the beach. A stable remained at the Heads but no feed for the horses, so chaff had to be brought in for them. One residence was left at the station, which was shared by the keepers on duty. The duties of the Pouto keeper included lighting the Pouto stationary light at dusk and extinguishing it at dawn, as well as acting as signalman when required and maintaining the navigational aids.
From 1911, several of New Zealand's manned lighthouses were automated. Prior to 1919, fuel for the Kaipara North Head light was changed from paraffin to incandescent petroleum. In 1924, it was automated with the installation of an acetylene gas light. The apparatus, however, still needed to be monitored each night.
Decline of the lighthouse station
The drifting sand that had hampered the building of the lighthouse continued to be a considerable problem through the twentieth century. These difficulties may have contributed to a cease in use of the signal station next to the lighthouse in 1923, and a year later a new signal station was erected at Pouto. Erosion also affected the station, and in 1925 a three-metre piece of land on the west side of the lighthouse broke away. Several of the outbuildings associated with the lighthouse had to be moved because of this and similar events. During the 1930s, marram grass was planted around the lighthouse as a preventative measure.
While international shipping had disappeared from the Kaipara harbour with the decline of the timber trade in the 1920s and 1930s, coastal vessels continued to ply the harbour for many years. At the outbreak of the Second World War (1939-1945), however, the lighthouse light was extinguished for security reasons. All staff, except the principal keeper, were relocated to other stations. In August 1942, the regular ferry service between Helensville and Dargaville also ceased operating. This was partly brought about by the improvement of road and rail services.
For a short while towards the end of the war, the station was effectively closed down. In 1944, work was undertaken to remove the original lantern, which involved dismantling the top of the lighthouse, removing the lantern structure and erecting a temporary roof over the tower. Weighing some ten to twelve tons, the lantern and its associated lighting equipment were transported by horse-drawn sledge to Pouto, and then on to Wellington by sea. In 1948, this was re-erected at Cape Saunders, near Dunedin, replacing an earlier timber lighthouse. The lantern was placed directly on the ground on a cliff-top site, without requiring a tower.
Although the Navy granted permission for the Kaipara lighthouse to be relit in September 1944, it was not until May 1947 that the lighthouse was re-equipped for use with a fully automatic light. A lantern from the Cape Foulwind lighthouse was installed, while gas cylinders were placed in the base of the tower to provide the necessary power for the light. Following these modifications, the tower stood at 12m high, 1.4m shorter than the original design. An assistant keeper made a weekly trip to the lighthouse, although the Kaipara harbour closed as a port of entry shortly after the light was relit in May 1947. The harbour waters, however, remained open for local traffic.During the late 1940s, the lighthouse keepers were responsible for running the post office at Pouto, and for collecting meteorological information. The Kaipara harbour was an emergency sea-plane alighting area to be used if weather conditions at Auckland prevented landings. In 1953 the last of the Kaipara lighthouse keepers was transferred to another station, and the lighthouse subsequently received regular visits from the Auckland-based lighthouse maintenance crew. In the mid 1950s, the light was extinguished and removed, and the lighthouse became a daymark. By 1967, the lighthouse had suffered at the hands of vandals, at which the Marine Department considered the structure's future.
Recognition as a historic site
In the early 1970s J. Hadden, a schoolteacher from Auckland, became interested in the lighthouse, which was by this time under threat of demolition. In 1971 the Marine Department had attempted to remove parts of the building, although their efforts were thwarted by a colony of bees in the light tower. With the support of the New Zealand Historic Places Trust (NZHPT), Hadden formed a preservation society called the Kaipara Lighthouse Trust. An offer was made to the Marine Department to purchase or lease the building, and to restore it. Donations of glass, paint and labour were secured. NZHPT efforts were supported by the University of Auckland Historical Society and Mr Sloane, M.P. for Hobson.
In early 1972 the lighthouse was visited by a group of government officials and its future considered. Later that year the Marine Department undertook to hand the lighthouse over to the NZHPT. Seven years later an eight hectare portion of the Pouto No. 3 block, including the site of the lighthouse, was classified as an historic reserve. The NZHPT were appointed to control and manage this reserve.
By 1982 work was underway on the restoration of the lighthouse for the NZHPT under the supervision of architect Richard Daspher. Local residents and businesses supported the restoration work with offers of labour and materials, and a large celebration was held in 1984, when the lighthouse was re-opened in its centenary year. That strong element of local support for the lighthouse continues to the present day. Today the lighthouse is the only surviving building of a number of structures that were erected at Kaipara North Head for the lighthouse service. The lighthouse attracts a large number of visitors, with an estimated 35,000 tourists visiting annually in the late 1990s.